It’s amazing to me how many people don’t exfoliate or don’t know what the word even means.  For those of you who aren’t doing this, you need to start, because it’s the second most important thing you can do to keep your skin healthy and vibrant.

The top three questions I get about exfoliating are as follows…

1.        What does exfoliating mean and do?

a.       Exfoliating is the mechanical or chemical removal of dead skin cells from the surface layer (epidermis) of the skin.

2.       Why do I need to exfoliate?

a.       The skin has hundreds of layers of dead skin cells that lie on top of the skin and they need to be removed in order to help improve the skin’s cell turnover rate (which is essential for anti-aging purposes)

b.      It will improve the texture of the skin

c.       Helps to even out skin discolorations

d.      Removes impurities from pores

e.      Will allow your moisturizers to penetrate deeper

People with…

Dry skin should exfoliate at least once a week

Normal skin should exfoliate about 2 times a week

 Oily skin should exfoliate about 3 times a week

If you have a skin condition ask your dermatologist what a good solution is for you

3.        What should I use to exfoliate?

a.       Take my advice; don’t be cheap when it comes to choosing an exfoliator.  If you splurge on anything let it be this.

b.      My experience with my own skin and looking at other people’s skin is that over-the-counter exfoliators that you purchase at the supermarket or drug stores are not good.  They are abrasive and too harsh for the face.  Save your money because you’ll be doing more damage than good.

c.       Seek advisement from a skincare professional

I personally like enzyme exfoliators or alpha/beta hydroxyl acids because they digest the dead skin cells and don’t require me to use anything with beads that may scratch the surface of my skin. 

At the moment, I’m using a pear fig enzyme peel by Naturopathica.  It leaves my skin feeling soft, glowing, and blackhead free and it smells absolutely amazing.  It’s like putting a sweet jelly or jam on your face, so good!!

Ingredients

So back to the basics:   moisturizing.  I’m sure most of you use a moisturizer, if not you need to start using one in the morning and at night because the skin craves moisture, especially in the winter.  Between the cold air and hot, dry heat in the house, your skin is definitely going to need some extra TLC (tender love and care).

Just in case you are unsure when to incorporate moisturizing into your skin care regime, it comes after cleansing or if you use a toner, after that.

When it comes to moisturizing, it’s pretty simple to choose what’s right for you…

Dry Skin:  Your skin is lacking oil, which makes it flaky, peely, and it may feel rough.

You don’t necessarily need to use a heavy thick cream, but you do want to make sure your using something that is going to draw moisture to the skin.  Dry skin is the most fragile and needs the most care when it comes to keeping it moist so choose something that is oil-based.

One thing to look for is Hyaluronic Acid because it traps and draws moisture towards the skin.  Black current seed and grape seed oil is also very hydrating.

               

Normal Skin:  Your skin’s water-oil balance is about the same.

               

You want to choose something that is water-based and light-weight.  Stay away from anything too greasy because your skin doesn’t need it.

Oily/ Acneic Skin:  Your skin overproduces oil, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. 

People with oily skin age the slowest because their skin isn’t dried out.

               

You need to be using a water-based moisturizer that is noncomedogenic (doesn’t clog pores).  Maybe you would prefer a gel moisturizer, but please use one.

               

Don’t think just because you have oily skin that you don’t need a moisturizer because you would be wrong.  If anything it’s just as important for you to keep moisturized as someone with dry skin.

               

You most likely are using products that are stripping the oil from your skin, so you need to replace that oil.  If you don’t, what you’re causing your skin to do is produce more oil to compensate from you stripping it, just know that’s not a good thing.  By using a light weight moisturizer you’re tricking your skin into thinking it has enough and it will stop over-producing oil.

               

Maybe something that has beta-hydroxy acids like salicylic acid.

If you are sensitive too, stay away from products that have perfumes and dyes.  Try to look for calming ingredients like chamomile and aloe.

Also, for mature skin use oil-based moisturizers and products with antioxidants and alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acids.

If you have any specific questions, just ask and next week I’ll talk about exfoliating.

A Side Note: The Dirty Dozen

Last week I talked about cleansing.  I just want to add a little to it because I was trained on some new things today, which I felt were interesting.  So, I’m going to wait on discussing moisturizers and exfoliators because cleansing is the most essential step in the skin care regime. 

In a previous blog I wrote about dehydration and touched on inflammation.  I learned a new term today called inflamm-aging.  Meaning, that inflammation causes premature aging.  Things like cleansers are one of the leading causes of this.  Many over the counter products sound as if they are good for your skin, marketing companies made sure of this by using words like natural, organic, or for sensitive skin, but what consumers need to realize is that it is just a gimmick to get you to buy their brand.

Most skin care products like Aveeno, Nuetrogena, Clean & Clear, or Oil of Olay may have key ingredients in them that entice you to purchase them, but they also contain many harming ingredients that I would like to introduce to you called the Dirty Dozen.  Even those of you who purchase your skin care at Whole Foods, should look at the ingredients.  Just because it says it’s organic doesn’t mean it is, unless certified so and even then some certifications only require a certain percentage of organic ingredients. 

Here is the link to the webpage:  The Dirty Dozen

I want you to go grab some of your products and look at the ingredients listed and compare it to list in the link above.  I bet you’ll be surprised.

Another thing I was taught was that companies don’t need to list all of their ingredients on the label, so what’s listed may not be all that is in your products.

The bases of most products are made with these harmful ingredients and besides some of them being human carcinogens they also make the skin super sensitive.  Not to bore you, but some statistics that have been done show how sensitive people’s skin has become, due to these ingredients in cosmetic products.

In the 1980’s about 25% of the population believed they had sensitive skin.  Now, one out of two people are classified with sensitive skin according to the American Academy of Dermatology.

This is because ingredients like Urea and Parabens are the leading preservative in over-the-counter products and also leading allergens.  Another big one is Propylene Glycol, which is a common skin care base.

I’m telling you this because your cleanser and other products may contain ingredients that are aggravating your skin instead of helping it.

They cause chronic inflammation, which causes premature aging and contact dermatitis.

I know I threw a lot at you this week, but I think it’s really important to understand what you’re putting on your face because ultimately it ends up in your blood stream and travels throughout your body.

Back to Basics (Part One)

There are three maybe four main things that you need to do to take care of your skin:  cleanse, tone, moisturize, and exfoliate.

The problem is what the hell are you supposed to choose.  There are hundreds if not thousands of different skin care brands, all with a different gimmick.  Some work and some suck that’s just the truth.  And I’m sure, like me, you have tried almost EVERYTHING or close to it.  So how do you choose?

Well, it’s simpler then you may think.  This week I’m going to talk about cleansing and toning because it’s the bare essentials.

                Cleansers:  Used to remove dirt and oil from the skin.  Can also aid in hydrating the skin and treating skin conditions like acne, aging, and hyperpigmentation.

Dry Skin:  Milky or creamy cleanser, something that doesn’t foam.

Normal Skin:  Either milky or foamy cleanser, but look for something that has a natural foaming agent, like yucca.  Mainly try to stay away from things with a lot of alcohols in it and sodium laurel sulfate.

Oily or Acne Skin:  A water-based cleanser.  Something that foams is ok, but once again look for a natural foaming agent, like yucca.  It won’t strip your skin of its natural moisture, which is important when it comes to oily skin.  (Remember when you strip your skin with harsh products you cause your skin to produce more oil and dehydrate it).

Side Note:  Please wash your face daily, preferably in the morning and at night, but especially at night.  The world isn’t a very clean place and you should wash the build-up from the day off before you put your face on your pillow, which reminds me, change your pillow cases, frequently, especially if you have acne.  The oil and bacteria on your face go onto your pillow every night so try to give your skin a clean surface to rest on.

                Toners:  are optional

The reason for toners is to raise the pH of the skin back to a normal level.  When you cleanse your skin, it raises it to an alkaline level on the pH scale in order to soften the skin to remove dirt and impurities.  Toner tightens it back up.

 

Toners refine, refresh, restore, and remove.  Also, you should rinse off your toner with water, if the alcohol level in it is high.

There is no perfect brand, but all a matter of your preference and what works for you.  If you have specific questions or concerns please feel free to ask.  Next week I’ll cover moisturizers and exfoliators.

Pimples, pimples, pimples...

I think, everyone can agree, pimples suck.  No one wants to have one and when we do we obsess over it.  We sit in front of the mirror and pick and pick till we’re left with a bloody, pussy mess and then an ugly scar.

So why do these hideous things pop up on our face and always at the worst time?  Believe it or not pimples are a great insight into what is going on inside our bodies.  It’s like a map that is telling us where inside we are having problems, whether it be our heart, liver, stomach, or our reproductive systems.

http://www.bienetrespa.com/skin-care-101/face-mapping-facial-skincare/

Each region of the face coincides with a different part of the body.  The image above displays this idea.

Now, you can figure out what you need to do in order to change some bad habits that you may have.  That means cut down on smoking, drinking, and eating fatty, greasy foods. 

The facial map technique is a great insight into what may be causing your breakouts, but there are other reasons we breakout.  You may have a condition that requires a dermatologist’s assistance or you may just not take care of your skin.

I know, I know, you’re busy!  Well newsflash, so is everyone else.  I can’t tell you how many people come to me with acne problems and about half of them do nothing about it and expect me to miraculously change their skin in an hour.  Well, that’s just not going to happen.  I have no magic powers, unfortunately.  So, if you do suffer from acne or the occasional pimple make sure you take extra care to keep your skin clean.

That means wash your face daily, morning and night.  Ladies, don’t sleep with your makeup on.  It can cause you to breakout and causes you to age faster, both aren’t good things.

Exfoliate, regularly.  This means use a gentle scrub, something that has beads in it.  You do this to get rid of dead skin cells, keep the pores clean, and the cells rejuvenating.  Try to do it at least twice a week.  Make sure NOT to do it every day!  Everything in moderation.  Too much exfoliation can lead to inflammation and dehydration.

Last but not least use a moisturizer, an oil free one.  One that’s water-based so your skin won’t feel greasy.  Moisturizing helps compensate for the over-production of oil.  It tricks the skin into mimicking it, therefore you won’t produce your own, which can help prevent breakouts.

And if you really care, look for ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and retinols.  There great for keeping the skin clean and getting rid of dead skin.  They also help cells renew themselves in a healthy manner.

Other good ingredients are tea tree, witch hazel, turmeric, myrtle oil, orange, lemon, and ginger.

I think next week might be a good time to talk about the basics.  Like what are you supposed to wash your face with.