My Farewell...

This will most likely be my last blog to all of you and I just want to thank those of you who read it.  If you got anything from my blogs, I hope it was how to care and tend to your skin.  It is your body’s largest organ and should be treated as a temple.

That means be conscious of your environment, what you put in your body, and what you put on it.  Be mindful of the products that you use because they may doing more harm than good.

Please be sure to read your labels and look out for the “dirty dozen” so as to not put harmful ingredients on your skin, since they ultimately end up in your blood stream.

And take time to relax.  Health and wellness is essential to living a happy and successful life.  Whether it be taking a bath or reading a book, find a way to escape and get in touch with your inner self.

This time of year is chaotic, so even if you have to schedule quiet time do it.

With that being said, I hope have you have learned a few things that maybe you didn’t know before and if you ever have questions in the future please ask or you can visit me, Kristyna, at The Woodhouse Day Spa in Montclair, NJ.  Thanks again, lots and luck and love to all of you.

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Air Pollutions Effect on your Skin

This week I want to talk about the dirty world we live in and how it’s affecting our bodies.  Pollution is all around us, constantly.  Just because you don’t see it, doesn’t mean it doesn’t exist.  In fact, the air we breathe has over 180 air pollutants, six of which are extremely hazardous to your health.

The main ones are ozone, nitrogen oxide, sulfur dioxide, lead, carbon monoxide, and particulate matter.

When these chemicals enter your body they are damaging your respiratory system and depriving you and your organs of oxygen.

Oxygen is needed to keep the body healthy and this includes your skin as well.  These chemicals cause something known as free-radicals to damage your skin cells.

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These odd numbered atoms steal oxygen from the skin, causing premature aging.  And let’s be honest, who wants that.

So, what can you do to prevent these scavengers from destroying your beautiful skin?

The answer is antioxidants and lots of them!!

The best ones to use are vitamins A, C, and E.  Use them in your products, eat them in your foods, and make sure to take your vitamins.  This will help cancel out the harmful effects of free-radicals.

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Holiday Stress Remedies

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This is the time of year when everything starts to get a little hectic.  Between the holidays and exams I would bet that your stress level is reaching its peak. 

Stress is the leading cause in skin problems.  Everything from acne to wrinkles can be boiled down to stress.  So, what can you do to elevate some of it?

My personal favorite is the bubble bath.  There is nothing like sitting in a warm bath to soothe the nerves.  Add some lavender oil and salts and/or milk powder and you will feel instantly at ease.  Lavenders great because it is known for its calming and soothing properties, but another good choice is chamomile.  Salts remove toxins from the muscles and relax them.  Milk powders are a great addition because the lactic acid removes the dead skin and leaves the skin super soft.   

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And if you really want to relax, get some candles, turn off the lights, and just sit back and enjoy.  If you find that you can’t turn your mind off, I recommend putting some music on or grabbing a book. 

Personally, I like to have a glass of wine while soaking too, but be careful cause it can make you a little woozy.

Another way I like to unwind is yoga.  If I’m having a rough day and feeling tense, there is no better therapy.  When doing yoga, it is almost impossible to think about your awful day because your mind has to refocus on the position you’re trying to endure.

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I enjoy Bikram yoga the most, which is done in room heated to about 105 degrees, it’s usually dark too.  But anyway, it feels great!  You sweat out the day’s hard work and it leaves your muscles stretched and strengthened and your mind at ease.

If these things don’t work, try treating yourself to a spa day.  Get a massage or a facial or both.  Let someone else melt away your tension. 

But whatever your therapy is, do it because this time of year can get crazy and you don’t need to go insane with it.

If you have different ideas, feel free to share what you like to do to relax.

The Unsightly, Ingrown Hair

This week I want to tackle the age old problem of the ingrown hair.  The unsightly blemish can be painful and leave knarly scars.  They usually infect areas such as the face, neck, underarm, and pubic region.  

Both men and women get them, but men usually only suffer from ingrown hairs on their face and neck due to frequent shaving.  Women tend to get them in more sensitive areas like the bikini line, but without further ado let’s examine the facts.

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http://www.best-beardtrimmer.info/beard-trimming-tips/beard-grooming-how-to-avoid-discomfort-when-shaving/

What is an ingrown hair?

An ingrown hair occurs when the tip of the hair grows back into the skin instead of remaining on the surface.  The area can become irritated and/or infected, which can result in a pimple on top of the infected hair follicle.  And unfortunately, they rarely travel alone, when there’s one there is usually more to follow.

What causes ingrown hairs?

The primary cause of the ingrown hair is improper shaving and/or waxing.  Shaving against the growth of the hair can be irritating and cause them to form.  Also waxing can be too irritating for some and exacerbate the problem.

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How do you treat an ingrown hair?

There is no cure for the ingrown hair, but there are creams that have AHA’s (glycolic or lactic acid) and/or BHA’s (salicylic acid) that help prevent and treat them.

Another good way to treat them is with witch hazel and tea tree because they have soothing and antibacterial properties.

When trying to remove the ingrown hair at home, make sure the area is cleaned and then use pointed tweezers to try and remove.    

          

How do you prevent ingrown hairs?

·         Don’t shave too closely

·         Exfoliate regularly with a brush or scrub

·         Don’t wear tight clothing after shaving or waxing

·         Don’t shave against the growth of the hair

·         Avoid hot showers and exercise directly after waxing or shaving

How to: Treat Post-Summer Skin

This is the time of year that should be spent treating post-summer skin since the sun spent the last few months damaging it.  Your tan is probably faded and you will start to notice that your skin looks different.  It will most likely seem a little duller, a little drier, and a little more uneven; so how do we fix this?

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One way to start is to give yourself a facial or go get one.  Spend an hour or so pampering your skin in five easy steps.

Step One:  Cleanse 

Use a milky or creamy cleanser to wash away and soften the dead skin.  This will leave the skin clean, but also nourished because you won’t be stripping away its moisture with a foamy cleanser. 

Step Two:  Tone

Try using a light refreshing mist as opposed to a harsh astringent with a high alcohol content because that will leave the skin dry.  A mist will restore the skin to a balanced state and remove excess residue left behind by your cleanser.

Step Three:  Exfoliate

I suggest using something non-abrasive and that won’t leave the skin red and irritated.  At the moment I’m really into enzyme peels because they digest the dead skin cells as opposed to sluing them off with a mechanical scrub, which can be too stimulating and vigorous for the skin.  

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Step Four:  Mask

You’re going to want to do a mask, one that doesn’t dry, but moisturizes.  Yogurt, avocado, honey, bananas, and milk are good home remedies.  If you decide to make one here’s a website with good recipes, http://www.ehow.com/how_4509647_homemade-moisturizing-facial-mask.html. 

Let mask rest on the skin for at least 15 minutes to allow it time to penetrate into the skin.

Step Five:  Moisturize

The last step is to moisturize, preferably something with an SPF of 15 or higher.

These five easy steps will renew your skin, leaving it bright, moist and ready for winter.  If you have any specific concerns or want to customize your facial even further to address specific concerns like hyperpigmentation or rosacea, then feel free to ask. 

Winter Skin Care Tips

The winter wind is starting to blow in and you’ll need to make sure you’re ready to protect your skin.  With the changing season you’ll need to switch-up your skin care routine.  Between the bitter winds outside and dry heat inside, the skin is going to be craving extra moisture and will definitely need some soothing.

An easy way to do this is changing your moisturizer to something a little heavier, perhaps an oil-based cream as opposed to a water-based cream.  Look for oils like avocado, almond, or seed oils because they won’t clog your pores.  Another good thing to look for is hyaluronic acid because it draws and traps moisture to the skin.

Avoid harsh and abrasive products that leave the skin red, dry, and irritated because it will only get worse in the winter.

A few little tricks I like to do in the winter…

Turn my humidifier on in the winter to help add some moisture back to the air

Wrap my scarf around my face to try to protect it from the frosty winds, if I don’t I’m usually left with a raw, red face

Sleep with a hydrating mask on once a week to give my skin that extra mmff.

Don’t take super hot showers and sit in their forever (even though it feels really good) because that dries you out

I’m also a huge fan of the moisturizing and soothing effects of carrot seed oil, I’ll occasionally put it on in the morning before applying my face cream, so I feel protected

Another thing to remember besides taking care of your face is protecting your hands.  Your hands are usually just as exposed as your face and will need some extra TLC (tender love and care) too.  If you can, treat yourself to a manicure and indulge with a paraffin treatment (hot wax) because it will leave your hands super soft and hydrated.  I also like to use heavy creams on my hands, preferably something with Shea butter in it.

My new favorite hand cream at the moment is Whoopie Cream by a company called Farmhouse Fresh.  It’s a Shea butter cream that smells like Whoopie pies!!  Soo yummy and sweet, like vanilla icing, it’s perfect for the holiday season.

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If you have any other tid-bits you like to do in the winter, feel free to share!

It’s amazing to me how many people don’t exfoliate or don’t know what the word even means.  For those of you who aren’t doing this, you need to start, because it’s the second most important thing you can do to keep your skin healthy and vibrant.

The top three questions I get about exfoliating are as follows…

1.        What does exfoliating mean and do?

a.       Exfoliating is the mechanical or chemical removal of dead skin cells from the surface layer (epidermis) of the skin.

2.       Why do I need to exfoliate?

a.       The skin has hundreds of layers of dead skin cells that lie on top of the skin and they need to be removed in order to help improve the skin’s cell turnover rate (which is essential for anti-aging purposes)

b.      It will improve the texture of the skin

c.       Helps to even out skin discolorations

d.      Removes impurities from pores

e.      Will allow your moisturizers to penetrate deeper

People with…

Dry skin should exfoliate at least once a week

Normal skin should exfoliate about 2 times a week

 Oily skin should exfoliate about 3 times a week

If you have a skin condition ask your dermatologist what a good solution is for you

3.        What should I use to exfoliate?

a.       Take my advice; don’t be cheap when it comes to choosing an exfoliator.  If you splurge on anything let it be this.

b.      My experience with my own skin and looking at other people’s skin is that over-the-counter exfoliators that you purchase at the supermarket or drug stores are not good.  They are abrasive and too harsh for the face.  Save your money because you’ll be doing more damage than good.

c.       Seek advisement from a skincare professional

I personally like enzyme exfoliators or alpha/beta hydroxyl acids because they digest the dead skin cells and don’t require me to use anything with beads that may scratch the surface of my skin. 

At the moment, I’m using a pear fig enzyme peel by Naturopathica.  It leaves my skin feeling soft, glowing, and blackhead free and it smells absolutely amazing.  It’s like putting a sweet jelly or jam on your face, so good!!

Ingredients

So back to the basics:   moisturizing.  I’m sure most of you use a moisturizer, if not you need to start using one in the morning and at night because the skin craves moisture, especially in the winter.  Between the cold air and hot, dry heat in the house, your skin is definitely going to need some extra TLC (tender love and care).

Just in case you are unsure when to incorporate moisturizing into your skin care regime, it comes after cleansing or if you use a toner, after that.

When it comes to moisturizing, it’s pretty simple to choose what’s right for you…

Dry Skin:  Your skin is lacking oil, which makes it flaky, peely, and it may feel rough.

You don’t necessarily need to use a heavy thick cream, but you do want to make sure your using something that is going to draw moisture to the skin.  Dry skin is the most fragile and needs the most care when it comes to keeping it moist so choose something that is oil-based.

One thing to look for is Hyaluronic Acid because it traps and draws moisture towards the skin.  Black current seed and grape seed oil is also very hydrating.

               

Normal Skin:  Your skin’s water-oil balance is about the same.

               

You want to choose something that is water-based and light-weight.  Stay away from anything too greasy because your skin doesn’t need it.

Oily/ Acneic Skin:  Your skin overproduces oil, which isn’t necessarily a bad thing. 

People with oily skin age the slowest because their skin isn’t dried out.

               

You need to be using a water-based moisturizer that is noncomedogenic (doesn’t clog pores).  Maybe you would prefer a gel moisturizer, but please use one.

               

Don’t think just because you have oily skin that you don’t need a moisturizer because you would be wrong.  If anything it’s just as important for you to keep moisturized as someone with dry skin.

               

You most likely are using products that are stripping the oil from your skin, so you need to replace that oil.  If you don’t, what you’re causing your skin to do is produce more oil to compensate from you stripping it, just know that’s not a good thing.  By using a light weight moisturizer you’re tricking your skin into thinking it has enough and it will stop over-producing oil.

               

Maybe something that has beta-hydroxy acids like salicylic acid.

If you are sensitive too, stay away from products that have perfumes and dyes.  Try to look for calming ingredients like chamomile and aloe.

Also, for mature skin use oil-based moisturizers and products with antioxidants and alpha-hydroxy acids like glycolic and lactic acids.

If you have any specific questions, just ask and next week I’ll talk about exfoliating.

A Side Note: The Dirty Dozen

Last week I talked about cleansing.  I just want to add a little to it because I was trained on some new things today, which I felt were interesting.  So, I’m going to wait on discussing moisturizers and exfoliators because cleansing is the most essential step in the skin care regime. 

In a previous blog I wrote about dehydration and touched on inflammation.  I learned a new term today called inflamm-aging.  Meaning, that inflammation causes premature aging.  Things like cleansers are one of the leading causes of this.  Many over the counter products sound as if they are good for your skin, marketing companies made sure of this by using words like natural, organic, or for sensitive skin, but what consumers need to realize is that it is just a gimmick to get you to buy their brand.

Most skin care products like Aveeno, Nuetrogena, Clean & Clear, or Oil of Olay may have key ingredients in them that entice you to purchase them, but they also contain many harming ingredients that I would like to introduce to you called the Dirty Dozen.  Even those of you who purchase your skin care at Whole Foods, should look at the ingredients.  Just because it says it’s organic doesn’t mean it is, unless certified so and even then some certifications only require a certain percentage of organic ingredients. 

Here is the link to the webpage:  The Dirty Dozen

I want you to go grab some of your products and look at the ingredients listed and compare it to list in the link above.  I bet you’ll be surprised.

Another thing I was taught was that companies don’t need to list all of their ingredients on the label, so what’s listed may not be all that is in your products.

The bases of most products are made with these harmful ingredients and besides some of them being human carcinogens they also make the skin super sensitive.  Not to bore you, but some statistics that have been done show how sensitive people’s skin has become, due to these ingredients in cosmetic products.

In the 1980’s about 25% of the population believed they had sensitive skin.  Now, one out of two people are classified with sensitive skin according to the American Academy of Dermatology.

This is because ingredients like Urea and Parabens are the leading preservative in over-the-counter products and also leading allergens.  Another big one is Propylene Glycol, which is a common skin care base.

I’m telling you this because your cleanser and other products may contain ingredients that are aggravating your skin instead of helping it.

They cause chronic inflammation, which causes premature aging and contact dermatitis.

I know I threw a lot at you this week, but I think it’s really important to understand what you’re putting on your face because ultimately it ends up in your blood stream and travels throughout your body.

Back to Basics (Part One)

There are three maybe four main things that you need to do to take care of your skin:  cleanse, tone, moisturize, and exfoliate.

The problem is what the hell are you supposed to choose.  There are hundreds if not thousands of different skin care brands, all with a different gimmick.  Some work and some suck that’s just the truth.  And I’m sure, like me, you have tried almost EVERYTHING or close to it.  So how do you choose?

Well, it’s simpler then you may think.  This week I’m going to talk about cleansing and toning because it’s the bare essentials.

                Cleansers:  Used to remove dirt and oil from the skin.  Can also aid in hydrating the skin and treating skin conditions like acne, aging, and hyperpigmentation.

Dry Skin:  Milky or creamy cleanser, something that doesn’t foam.

Normal Skin:  Either milky or foamy cleanser, but look for something that has a natural foaming agent, like yucca.  Mainly try to stay away from things with a lot of alcohols in it and sodium laurel sulfate.

Oily or Acne Skin:  A water-based cleanser.  Something that foams is ok, but once again look for a natural foaming agent, like yucca.  It won’t strip your skin of its natural moisture, which is important when it comes to oily skin.  (Remember when you strip your skin with harsh products you cause your skin to produce more oil and dehydrate it).

Side Note:  Please wash your face daily, preferably in the morning and at night, but especially at night.  The world isn’t a very clean place and you should wash the build-up from the day off before you put your face on your pillow, which reminds me, change your pillow cases, frequently, especially if you have acne.  The oil and bacteria on your face go onto your pillow every night so try to give your skin a clean surface to rest on.

                Toners:  are optional

The reason for toners is to raise the pH of the skin back to a normal level.  When you cleanse your skin, it raises it to an alkaline level on the pH scale in order to soften the skin to remove dirt and impurities.  Toner tightens it back up.

 

Toners refine, refresh, restore, and remove.  Also, you should rinse off your toner with water, if the alcohol level in it is high.

There is no perfect brand, but all a matter of your preference and what works for you.  If you have specific questions or concerns please feel free to ask.  Next week I’ll cover moisturizers and exfoliators.

Pimples, pimples, pimples...

I think, everyone can agree, pimples suck.  No one wants to have one and when we do we obsess over it.  We sit in front of the mirror and pick and pick till we’re left with a bloody, pussy mess and then an ugly scar.

So why do these hideous things pop up on our face and always at the worst time?  Believe it or not pimples are a great insight into what is going on inside our bodies.  It’s like a map that is telling us where inside we are having problems, whether it be our heart, liver, stomach, or our reproductive systems.

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Each region of the face coincides with a different part of the body.  The image above displays this idea.

Now, you can figure out what you need to do in order to change some bad habits that you may have.  That means cut down on smoking, drinking, and eating fatty, greasy foods. 

The facial map technique is a great insight into what may be causing your breakouts, but there are other reasons we breakout.  You may have a condition that requires a dermatologist’s assistance or you may just not take care of your skin.

I know, I know, you’re busy!  Well newsflash, so is everyone else.  I can’t tell you how many people come to me with acne problems and about half of them do nothing about it and expect me to miraculously change their skin in an hour.  Well, that’s just not going to happen.  I have no magic powers, unfortunately.  So, if you do suffer from acne or the occasional pimple make sure you take extra care to keep your skin clean.

That means wash your face daily, morning and night.  Ladies, don’t sleep with your makeup on.  It can cause you to breakout and causes you to age faster, both aren’t good things.

Exfoliate, regularly.  This means use a gentle scrub, something that has beads in it.  You do this to get rid of dead skin cells, keep the pores clean, and the cells rejuvenating.  Try to do it at least twice a week.  Make sure NOT to do it every day!  Everything in moderation.  Too much exfoliation can lead to inflammation and dehydration.

Last but not least use a moisturizer, an oil free one.  One that’s water-based so your skin won’t feel greasy.  Moisturizing helps compensate for the over-production of oil.  It tricks the skin into mimicking it, therefore you won’t produce your own, which can help prevent breakouts.

And if you really care, look for ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, and retinols.  There great for keeping the skin clean and getting rid of dead skin.  They also help cells renew themselves in a healthy manner.

Other good ingredients are tea tree, witch hazel, turmeric, myrtle oil, orange, lemon, and ginger.

I think next week might be a good time to talk about the basics.  Like what are you supposed to wash your face with.

Skin Conditions: Dehydration

Why is it not enough to just know whether you have oily, dry, normal, or combination skin?  Because there are a few other skin conditions that can affect how you should care your skin.  There are about six different ones that can affect your skin and it is possible to have one or more of the ones listed:  dehydration, sensitivity, acne, aging, couperose, and pigmentation.  This week I’m going to talk about dehydration.

I seem to come by dehydration the most.  Everyone and I mean everyone is susceptible to dehydration.  People don’t usually understand what it means to be dehydrated, but it’s pretty simple.  It means your skin in lacking water, not oil, which means even people with the oiliest skin, can have dehydration. 

In fact, I notice more cases of dehydration in oily skin or those with acne than any other skin type and it’s because these people constantly strip their skin of its natural moisture.  They do this by using harsh products, excessive cleansing, and exfoliating too often (a process done to remove dead skin cells). 

What is dehydration?

Characteristics of Dehydration:  dullness, the presence of fine lines, and occasionally flakiness

 A test that you can do at home to see if your skin in dehydrated is simply place your index finger on your jaw line and push up.  If you see a bunch of little horizontal lines, your skin is dehydrated.

Causes of Dehydration:  smoking, drinking excessively, using harsh products, cleansing or exfoliating too frequently.  Also your diet is probably lacking water, fruits, and vegetables.

How do you fix or prevent this?

A quick fix to this problem would be to drink more water and eat more fruits and vegetables.  Also, avoid too much caffeine, smoking, and excessive drinking.  Basically stop doing what you love and do more of what you don’t.

Also use products that have ingredients that will attract and trap moisture to the skin.

Ingredients to look for:

• Essential fatty acids:  help stimulate cell renewal and deeply moisturize the skin
• Humectants:  draw and trap moisture to the skin
• Glycerin:  hydrates the skin and is a solvent for other ingredients (allowing other ingredients to absorb more easily into the skin)

Examples – acai, andiroba seed, avocado, olive fruit oil, papaya, cocoa bean, cocoa butter, fig, green algae extract, jasmine, jojoba seed, lactic acid (derived from milk), macadamia nut, sesame seed, shea butter, sunflower seed, sweet almond oil

The examples I listed are some of the most well-known ingredients to look for, but there are definitely a lot of others.   

Dehydration is easily preventable and easy to fix, but if left untreated it could lead to premature aging.  This is just one of many conditions the skin can have and next week I will talk about another one, acne.

How to Determine Your Skin Type

Hi, my name is Kristyna and I have been a licensed esthetician, aka skin care specialist, since 2008.  I decided to write this blog in order to help people with their skin’s needs and issues.  But enough about me, let’s talk skin.  

The first thing to determine in caring for your skin is what type of skin you have.  There are four skin types:  dry, normal, combination, oily, and sensitive.  In order to figure out which you have, simply grab a mirror, which shouldn’t be hard since most people spend an average of five days a year in front of one.  The second and last step, examine your pores.

You start by looking at the size of the pore from the center of the face (nose, chin, forehead) to the outside (cheeks).  Depending on what you see, it will tell you, your skin type.

1.        Dry:  You will notice little to no pores on the face and if anywhere, the sides of the nose.

2.       Normal:  Medium sized pores in the t-zone (nose, chin, forehead) that dissipate to a smaller size of the cheeks.

3.       Combination: Large sized pores in the t-zone that shrink to a medium size on the cheeks.  Normal and combination skin types are very similar.

4.       Oily:  Large pores all over face.

If you’re sitting there wondering how do I know what’s large and what’s little, don’t worry, because there are other ways to determine what type of skin you have.

Image from:  http://www.123rf.com

The other way is by texture and pimples.  You ask yourself two questions:  How does my skin feel to the touch (rough and flaky, smooth, or oily)? and how often do I breakout? 

1.       Rough and flaky:  this usually indicates dry skin and will most likely not have pimples.

2.   Smooth:  this is usually how normal and combination skin feels and is subject to the occasional breakout.

3.     Oily:  if you touch your face and rub your fingers together and it feels greasy, you have oily skin, which means you are definitely prone to breakouts.

There are other factors in determining on how to treat your skin, such as dehydration, sensitivity, acne, and aging, but we’ll get to that next week.